Eiger

Solo Ascents • Eiger North Face

The 1938 route by which the North Face of the Eiger was first climbed is justifiably regarded as one of the greatest route in the Alps. This is where many of the great climbers have cut their teeth. The height of the face is 1800 meters with nearly twice that length of climbing, ice pitches of 55-60°, numerous traverses making retreat difficult, surprise bad weather when cold fronts come from the north and worst of all it is almost continually raked by stonefall. The upper face, normally loosened by the summer sun, stays firm inthe icy grip of winter making it safer from stonefall but more difficult in other ways.

Catherine climbed the route in 17 hours on March 7th 1992 back roping herself on the most difficult sections. It was the first solo, summer or winter, by a woman.

The film "Eiger" relates this ascent.

Photos : René ROBERT

“ Woman who taled the killer peak. Catherine Destivelle enjoys a moment of triumph as she becomes the first woman to climb the dangerous north face of Eiger alone. The 32-year-old, nicknamed Queen of the Peaks, completed the ascent in less than 17 hours. She says she was not afraid, despite climbing in the dark and cold. Her first request on descending was for a chocolate ice cream ” (The European)

“ Catherine Destivelle was anoited “Queen of the Peaks” after becoming the first woman to make a solo ascent of the Eiger's North wall, “the most dangerous mountain in the Alps ” (The Japan Times)

" Her three best winter solos were done in splendid style " (Rock'n Ice)