Solo Ascents • Matterhorn North Face

The
Matterhorn needs no introduction being one of the most renowned
mountains in the world and the scene of both great achievement and
tragedy in 1865 during its first ascent by Whymper. Its notorious North
Face received its first ascent by the Schmidt brothers in 1931 and a
more difficult line on the same face was made solo in the winter of
1965 over a six day period by the renowned Walter Bonatti. In 1994 ,
Catherine had already climbed two of the three most famous North Faces
of the Alps, the Eiger and the Grandes Jorasses. The Matterhorn was the
last one : in February 1994, she repeated the Bonatti route solo over
four days during which time she lost her outer gloves but persevered to
the top despite subzero temperatures.
Photos : Pascal TOURNAIRE
“ Personne
depuis Bonatti n'avait osé défier la face nord du Cervin en solo. Une
ascension diabolique. 29 ans après, une femme fragile signe l'exploit ”
(Paris Match)
“
This four-day-climb was probably her most impressive alpine
achievement. “Since Bonatti's first ascent nobody had done the Bonatti
solo in winter. I didn't want to do the classic route of the North
Face. I wanted something I was not sure I could do”.” (Rock'n Ice)
“
Woman solos up Matterhorn. Record-setting mountain climber Catherine
Destivelle of France has completed the first solo winter climb by a
woman up a treacherous route of the Matterhorn ” (Boston MA Globe)